Surfing is a way to connect with nature and the elements from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Surfing, for me, has always been more than just a sport or a hobby. It is a way to feel the presence of nature in a raw and elemental form. When I am out on the water, waiting for the perfect wave, I am acutely aware of the power of the ocean and the forces of nature at play. The sound of the waves crashing against the shore, the feel of the saltwater on my skin, and the sight of the sun setting over the horizon all serve to remind me of my place in the natural world. As I paddle out into the lineup, I can feel the energy of the ocean beneath me and the wind on my face. The rhythm of the waves becomes my heartbeat, and I am completely in tune with the ebb and flow of the tide. There is a sense of freedom and liberation that comes from being so completely immersed in the elements. I am no longer just a spectator of nature; I am a participant, connected to the earth in a way that is both ...
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