The author's love for surfing never waned, even as he grew older from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
At the core of my being, surfing has always been my guiding light, my north star. It has been the constant force that has shaped my life, my identity, my very existence. From the moment I first felt the exhilarating rush of riding a wave, I was hooked. I found solace in the rhythm of the ocean, in the dance of the tide. It became my sanctuary, my refuge from the chaos of the world. As the years passed, my love for surfing only deepened. It was not just a hobby or a pastime – it was a way of life. I lived and breathed surfing, obsessed with perfecting my craft, with pushing the boundaries of what I thought was possible. The thrill of conquering a monster wave, of feeling the power of the ocean beneath me, was unlike anything else. It was a drug, an addiction that I could never shake. Even as I grew older, as responsibilities piled up and...
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