Surfing requires a deep understanding of the natural world and its forces from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Surfing is not just about riding waves; it is about immersing oneself in the natural world and understanding its intricate forces. In order to truly excel at surfing, one must have a deep appreciation for the ocean and all its complexities. This means being attuned to the tides, currents, winds, and swells that shape the waves we ride. Surfers develop a keen sense of observation and intuition through years of experience in the water. They learn to read the subtle signs of nature - the way the wind ruffles the surface of the water, the changing colors of the sky at sunrise, the feel of the ocean against their skin. These observations help them anticipate the movements of the waves and position themselves accordingly. Surfing also requires a profound respect for the power of the ocean. Surfers understand that they are at the mercy of nature and must learn to work with, rather than against, its forces. They know that the ocean can be both a source of joy and a source of danger, and they approach it with humility and reverence. In addition to mastering the physical aspects of surfing, such as paddling, popping up, and riding a wave, surfers must also cultivate a deep mental connection with the natural world. They learn to let go of their ego and surrender to the rhythms of the ocean, allowing themselves to be carried by its currents and guided by its waves.- Surfing is a holistic experience that challenges surfers to connect with something greater than themselves. It is a way of tapping into the primal forces of nature and finding a sense of peace and harmony in the chaos of the ocean. Only those who are willing to immerse themselves fully in the natural world can truly understand the magic of surfing.
