Surfing is a way to connect with one's inner self and find peace from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Surfing, for me, has always been more than just a sport or a hobby. It is a way to escape from the chaos of the world and connect with something deeper within myself. When I am out on the water, riding the waves, I feel a sense of peace and tranquility that is hard to find anywhere else. The rhythm of the ocean, the sound of the waves crashing against the shore, it all helps me to quiet the noise in my mind and be truly present in the moment. There is a meditative quality to surfing that I have not found in anything else. The focus and concentration required to catch a wave, to balance on the board, it all clears my mind of any worries or distractions. In those moments, it is just me and the ocean, nothing else matters. I am able to let go of my fears and anxieties, and simply be. Surfing also allows me to tap into a sense of freedom and liberation that is hard to come by in our modern, ...
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