Surfing can be both physically and mentally demanding from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Surfing is not merely a physical activity. It demands more than just strength and endurance. It can be mentally taxing as well. The ocean is unpredictable and ever-changing, presenting surfers with a continuous challenge that requires quick thinking and adaptability. The physical demands of surfing are apparent - the paddling out, the duck diving under waves, the pop-up to catch a wave. It requires a certain level of fitness and strength to handle the powerful forces of the ocean. But it is the mental aspect that truly sets surfing apart. The ocean is a formidable and often intimidating place. The vastness of the sea, the power of the waves, and the unpredictability of the conditions can all play a significant role in a surfer's mental state. It takes focus, concentration, and courage to navigate the ever-chan...
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