Surfing requires a deep understanding of the natural world and its forces from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Surfing is not just about riding waves; it is about immersing oneself in the natural world and understanding its intricate forces. In order to truly excel at surfing, one must have a deep appreciation for the ocean and all its complexities. This means being attuned to the tides, currents, winds, and swells that shape the waves we ride. Surfers develop a keen sense of observation and intuition through years of experience in the water. They learn to read the subtle signs of nature - the way the wind ruffles the surface of the water, the changing colors of the sky at sunrise, the feel of the ocean against their skin. These observations help them anticipate the movements of the waves...
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