Surfing is a way to embrace risk and uncertainty from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Surfing, at its core, is all about taking risks. From the moment a surfer paddles out into the ocean, they are faced with the unpredictability of the waves. There is a constant dance between the surfer and the sea, with no two waves ever being the same. This uncertainty is what drives surfers to keep coming back for more, as they thrive on the challenge of mastering something so uncontrollable. The act of surfing itself is inherently risky. Every time a surfer catches a wave, they are putting themselves at the mercy of the ocean. They must navigate the ever-changing conditions, from the size and shape of the waves to the presence of other surfers in the lineup. In the water, there are no guarantees, and surfers must be prepared to adapt to whatever comes their way. But it is precisely this element of risk that makes surfing so exhilarating. By embracing the uncertainty of the ocean, surfers are able to push themselves beyond their comfort z...
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