Surfing is a way to connect with one's inner self and find peace from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Surfing, for me, has always been more than just a sport or a hobby. It is a way to escape from the chaos of the world and connect with something deeper within myself. When I am out on the water, riding the waves, I feel a sense of peace and tranquility that is hard to find anywhere else. The rhythm of the ocean, the sound of the waves crashing against the shore, it all helps me to quiet the noise in my mind and be truly present in the moment. There is a meditative quality to surfing that I have not found in anything else. The focus and concentration required to catch a wave, to balance on the board, it all clears my mind of any worries or distractions. In those moments, it is just me and the ocean, nothing else matters. I am able to let go of my fears and anxieties, and simply be. Surfing also allows me to tap into a sense of freedom and liberation that is hard to come by in our modern, fast-paced world. The feeling of riding a wave, of being carried by the power of nature, is exhilarating and empowering. It reminds me of the vastness of the world, of the infinite possibilities that lie beyond the horizon. Through surfing, I am able to connect with my inner self in a way that is profound and transformative. It is a spiritual experience, a way to understand myself and my place in the universe. The ocean has a way of washing away the layers of pretense and ego, leaving only my true essence behind. It is a humbling and awe-inspiring feeling, one that I cherish and seek out whenever I can. In the end, surfing is not just a sport or a pastime. It is a way of life, a way of being in the world that is deeply meaningful and fulfilling. It is a journey of self-discovery and self-realization, a path to finding peace and harmony within myself. And for that, I am eternally grateful.
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