Surfing has its own culture and community that the author became a part of from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Surfing, with its own intricate culture and tight-knit community, drew me in from the beginning. It was more than just a hobby or sport; it was a way of life, a passion that consumed me completely. The surfers I met welcomed me with open arms, sharing their knowledge and love for the ocean. Through their stories and experiences, I began to understand the deep connection they felt to the waves and the surfing lifestyle. As I immersed myself in this world, I discovered the rituals and traditions that defined surfing culture. From the early morning surf sessions to the post-surf gatherings on the beach, every aspect of the surfing experience was steeped in tradition and camaraderie. There was a sense of belonging that I had never experienced before, a shared understanding and respe...
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