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The author's relationships were often shaped by his love for surfing from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan

Throughout the narrative, it becomes clear that surfing played a significant role in shaping the relationships of the protagonist. His passion for riding waves not only influenced his choice of companions but also dictated the depth and longevity of those relationships. From his early days as a novice surfer to his more experienced years chasing waves around the world, the protagonist found himself drawn to individuals who shared his love for the ocean. These shared experiences in the water created a strong bond between them, as they navigated the challenges and triumphs of surfing together. Moreover, the protagonist's dedication to surfing often led him to prioritize his time on the waves over other aspects of his life, including personal relationships. This single-minded focus ...
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    Barbarian Days

    William Finnegan

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