The author's passion for surfing started at a young age from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
From the moment I first saw a surfer riding the waves, I knew that I had stumbled upon something extraordinary. The sight of that lone figure effortlessly gliding across the water ignited a spark within me that I couldn't ignore. It was a feeling of pure exhilaration, a sense of freedom that I had never experienced before. As a young boy growing up in California, I was drawn to the ocean like a moth to a flame. Every chance I got, I would make my way to the beach, eager to immerse myself in the world of surfing. I spent hours watching the seasoned surfers, studying their every move with a mixture of awe and envy. It wasn't long before I decided to try my hand at surfing myself. I borrowed a beat-up board from a friend and paddled out into the water, feeling a rush of excitement and fear coursing through my veins. As I caught my first wave and felt the power of the ocean propelling me forward, I knew that I had found my calling. From that moment on, surfing became more than just a hobby for me – it became a way of life. I dedicated every spare moment to perfecting my skills, pushing myself to new limits with each wave I conquered. The thrill of riding the waves became an addiction, a passion that consumed me in ways I never thought possible. Looking back now, I realize that my love for surfing started at a young age and has only grown stronger with time. It is a part of who I am, an integral piece of my identity that has shaped me in ways I never could have imagined. The ocean has always been my home, and the waves my constant companions. And as long as there are waves to ride, I will always be a surfer at heart.
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