The author's memories of surfing are filled with emotional depth and significance from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
As I think back on my days of surfing, I am overcome with a sense of deep emotion and significance. The memories flood my mind like waves crashing against the shore, each one carrying with it a weight that is impossible to ignore. Every moment spent riding the waves, feeling the ocean beneath me, and surrendering myself to the power of the sea has left an indelible mark on my soul. The sheer joy and exhilaration I felt while surfing are unmatched by any other experience in my life. The rush of adrenaline as I caught a wave, the feeling of weightlessness as I glided across the water, the sense of freedom and liberation that washed over me - these are emotions that I will never forget. They are etched into my memory with a clarity that is both beautiful and haunting. But along with the joy, there is also a profound sense of connection and belonging that I experienced while surfing. The ocean became not just a playgroun...
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