The author's experiences in the water were often transformative from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
The sea was a kind of drug, a gateway to another world. I had my first taste of it as a child, playing in the shorebreak at the local beach. The thrill of being tumbled in the waves, feeling the power of the water against my skin, was like nothing else I had ever experienced. It was a feeling of freedom, of being completely alive in the moment. As I grew older, my relationship with the ocean deepened. I became obsessed with surfing, spending hours each day chasing the perfect wave. The act of riding a wave, of harnessing its energy and power, was a form of meditation for me. It was a way to escape the chaos of the world and find peace in the beauty of nat...
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