The author's experiences in the water were often transformative from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
The sea was a kind of drug, a gateway to another world. I had my first taste of it as a child, playing in the shorebreak at the local beach. The thrill of being tumbled in the waves, feeling the power of the water against my skin, was like nothing else I had ever experienced. It was a feeling of freedom, of being completely alive in the moment. As I grew older, my relationship with the ocean deepened. I became obsessed with surfing, spending hours each day chasing the perfect wave. The act of riding a wave, of harnessing its energy and power, was a form of meditation for me. It was a way to escape the chaos of the world and find peace in the beauty of nature. But surfing was also a way to confront my fears and limitations. The ocean was a wild and unpredictable force, and each wave was a test of my courage and skill. There were moments of pure terror, when I felt like I was at the mercy of the sea. But there were also moments of pure joy, when I felt truly alive and connected to something greater than myself. In those moments, I felt transformed. The ocean had a way of stripping away all pretense and revealing the raw truth of who I was. It was a place of clarity and honesty, where I could be my truest self. And in those moments, I found a sense of purpose and meaning that I had never experienced before.- A mentor, a friend. It challenged me, pushed me, and ultimately shaped me into the person I am today. My experiences in the water were not just moments of pleasure or excitement; they were moments of profound transformation. The ocean was a crucible, a place where I was forged and remade, again and again. And I wouldn't have it any other way.
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