The author's experiences in the water were both exhilarating and terrifying from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
The water was a place of extremes for me - a source of both boundless joy and deep fear. There were moments when I felt truly alive, when the waves carried me in a dance of pure exhilaration. The rush of adrenaline as I rode a perfect wave, the sun warm on my back, the salt water spraying my face - these were the moments that made my heart sing. But there were also times when the water turned on me, when the power of the ocean seemed too vast, too overwhelming. The same waves that once lifted me up now threatened to swallow me whole. The fear of being pulled under, of losing control, was always lurking just beneath the surface. It was a constant battle between the thrill of the ride and the terror of the unknown. I found myself constantly teetering on t...
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