Surfing requires dedication, patience, and skill from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Surfing demands a commitment that goes beyond mere interest or curiosity. It requires a deep dedication to mastering the craft, a willingness to put in the time and effort necessary to improve and grow as a surfer. This dedication is not a fleeting passion, but a long-term commitment to constantly pushing oneself to new limits and overcoming challenges. Patience is another essential quality for surfers to possess. The sport is unpredictable and often requires waiting for the right conditions to present themselves. Waves can be fickle, and surfers must learn to patiently wait for the...
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