Surfing requires dedication, patience, and skill from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Surfing demands a commitment that goes beyond mere interest or curiosity. It requires a deep dedication to mastering the craft, a willingness to put in the time and effort necessary to improve and grow as a surfer. This dedication is not a fleeting passion, but a long-term commitment to constantly pushing oneself to new limits and overcoming challenges. Patience is another essential quality for surfers to possess. The sport is unpredictable and often requires waiting for the right conditions to present themselves. Waves can be fickle, and surfers must learn to patiently wait for the perfect moment to catch a wave. This ability to be patient and wait for the right opportunity is crucial for success in surfing. In addition to dedication and patience, surfing also demands a high level of skill. It is not simply a matter of paddling out into the ocean and catching a wave; surfers must possess a deep understanding of the ocean, waves, and currents. They must also have the physical ability to navigate the water, balance on a board, and execute complex maneuvers. Developing these skills takes time, practice, and a willingness to learn from both successes and failures.- Surfing is a challenging and demanding sport that requires a unique combination of dedication, patience, and skill. Those who are willing to put in the effort and commit themselves to the sport will find a rewarding and fulfilling pursuit that offers endless opportunities for growth and self-improvement.
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