Surfing is a way to escape the pressures of everyday life from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Surfing seemed to offer a kind of escape from the pressures of everyday life, a way to disconnect from the demands and stresses that seemed to constantly loom over me. When I was out on the water, all of that faded away, replaced by a sense of freedom and exhilaration that was hard to find anywhere else. The feeling of being weightless as I rode a wave, of being completely in the moment, was something that I craved more and more as time went on. The act of paddling out into the ocean, of feeling the cool water against my skin, was like shedding a heavy burden that I didn't even realize I was carrying. The worries and anxieties of daily life seemed to melt away as I focused on catching the perfect wave, on navigating the ever-changing currents and tides. It was a form of meditation, a way to clear my mind of clutter and noise and...
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