Surfing is a way to escape the pressures of everyday life from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan

Surfing seemed to offer a kind of escape from the pressures of everyday life, a way to disconnect from the demands and stresses that seemed to constantly loom over me. When I was out on the water, all of that faded away, replaced by a sense of freedom and exhilaration that was hard to find anywhere else. The feeling of being weightless as I rode a wave, of being completely in the moment, was something that I craved more and more as time went on. The act of paddling out into the ocean, of feeling the cool water against my skin, was like shedding a heavy burden that I didn't even realize I was carrying. The worries and anxieties of daily life seemed to melt away as I focused on catching the perfect wave, on navigating the ever-changing currents and tides. It was a form of meditation, a way to clear my mind of clutter and noise and just be present in the moment. Surfing also provided a sense of connection to something larger than myself, to the vast and powerful forces of nature that shaped the waves and currents. There was a humbling quality to being out in the ocean, to feeling the raw power of the waves crashing around me. It reminded me of how small and insignificant my problems and worries really were in the grand scheme of things. But perhaps most importantly, surfing offered a sense of community and camaraderie that was hard to find elsewhere. The shared experience of riding waves with friends, of cheering each other on and commiserating over wipeouts, created a bond that was both unique and enduring. In those moments, I felt truly alive and connected to something greater than myself, something that transcended the petty concerns of everyday life.

Surfing was not just a sport or a hobby for me – it was a way of life, a way to escape the pressures and demands of the world and connect with something deeper and more meaningful. It was a way to find peace and clarity in a world that often felt overwhelming and chaotic. And for that, I was endlessly grateful.

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Barbarian Days

William Finnegan

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