Surfing has its own culture and community that the author became a part of from "summary" of Barbarian Days by William Finnegan

Surfing, with its own intricate culture and tight-knit community, drew me in from the beginning. It was more than just a hobby or sport; it was a way of life, a passion that consumed me completely. The surfers I met welcomed me with open arms, sharing their knowledge and love for the ocean. Through their stories and experiences, I began to understand the deep connection they felt to the waves and the surfing lifestyle. As I immersed myself in this world, I discovered the rituals and traditions that defined surfing culture. From the early morning surf sessions to the post-surf gatherings on the beach, every aspect of the surfing experience was steeped in tradition and camaraderie. There was a sense of belonging that I had never experienced before, a shared understanding and respect among fellow surfers that transcended language and background. The surfing community became my family, a support system that encouraged and challenged me to push my limits and grow as a surfer. Whether we were riding the waves together or simply sitting on the beach, the bonds we formed were strong and enduring. I learned valuable life lessons from my fellow surfers – patience, perseverance, and humility – that would stay with me long after I left the waves behind. Surfing was not just a hobby for me; it was a way of life, a passion that shaped my identity and worldview. The culture and community that surrounded surfing gave me a sense of purpose and belonging that I had been searching for. In the ocean, among the waves and my fellow surfers, I found a home unlike any other.

Barbarian Days

William Finnegan

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